Rome & Campania: Part 4

22 September 2013

After a whole day of travelling (including getting lost in Naples) I couldn't wait for a more relaxing part of our trip: 5 days on Capri. We were staying in the western part of the island (near Anacapri), which is not so popular with the glamorous crowds as Capri. We stayed in a small budget guest house, which only had 3 bedrooms and two hosts (Ubmerto and Ciro), who lived in the house full time. 

The area around our accommodation was popular with families, summer house owners and people, who call Capri their home (lucky them!). There was no shop, not many facilities and only a couple of small family run restaurants, which suited us just right as we weren't really that drawn to the more touristic (i.e. much more expensive and also, well, quite posh) part of the island. On the morning of our second day on Capri we had breakfast on the terrace (overlooking the sea and also with Ischia on the horizon) and we made our way down the cliff to the Faro lighthouse and beach.

There was a beach club there, but it was very overpriced and we quickly found a spot on the rocks where we could leave our towels and books and go for a swim. There was no beach, just a concrete platform, some rocks with a ladder. The sea was not that cold but still so refreshing. The fact that there was no beach didn't really bother me that much, as we had a swimming pool with beach chairs in our accommodation and I really just wanted to swim in the sea rather than stay on the beach to read a book. 

Even though it was still an early morning it was rather busy, lots of families and children jumping into the sea from the rocks. After a couple of swims we decided to got to Capri and check out Marina Piccola - another place for a swim, but this time with a pebble beach. We took a bus straight from Faro to Capri and walked through the town to via Krupp and down to the Marina. It was quite a walk, maybe about 4km. The views were just amazing and the water more blue than anything I've seen before.

In the Marina Piccola there were another two beach clubs but just the entry (without a deck chair or a towel) was 20 euro, so we passed on it and just went to the public part of the beach. The weather wasn't very sunny and we decided to just sit on the rocks and take in the views before going back to Capri for dinner. 

Umberto made dinner reservations for us in his friend's restaurant in Capri but we still had a couple of hours to kill. We went to one of the bars on the main square and ordered iced coffee. And then....a thunderstorm started and the heavens opened... rain pouring down. Luckily we were sitting under a waterproof umbrella so we stayed relatively dry. It rained for about 45 minutes, unfortunately I didn't take any pictures, but it looked very pretty. At 8.30PM it was time to go for dinner. A dinner of pizza and cheap wine later we took a rickety bus to Anacapri. It was about 11PM and we had to walk to our guesthouse in darkness from the bus stop, just using our phones as torches. Umberto and Ciro were waiting for us with a cherry liqueur and after a short chat we called it a night. That was the day we fell in love with Capri.

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